30 August 2007

Airag adventures




My friend Todd and I are having a great time during his visit here. One of the things we've been doing is conducting water surveys in the countryside surrounding Hongor. This is part of the overall water project our ministry is working on, in cooperation with and support from the Mongolian government. As a result of the water contamination in Hongor (see previous posts), the government has essentially requested that we go to every single Mongolian home in Hongor and collect data on water usage and family health. It has even expanded to the entire state, and we now have an open door to do something on a national level. Although the cyanide contamination is specific to Hongor, water quality is a national problem. The survey data will be summarized into reports used by American scientists and water experts. We plan to follow up with providing water filters in the homes. It's been an amazing experience to be invited into every home.

Mongolians are very hospitable, especially in the countryside. Todd and I visited families in their countryside gers. Each visit has similar customs: we enter and sit on the left side of the ger (and if you're tall Todd, you bang your head on the low door frame), we introduce ourselves, and they begin serving us all manner of dairy products. The most common is milk tea and curd, but we've also been served cheese, milk cream, Mongolian vodka and airag. Yesterday we visited a family with a good number of horses, including the cutest foal who is only 2 months old (above). The woman let us watch while she milked the mare (also above-recall mares' milk is for making airag). Then we went to the next family who had an unusually large cow skin to make airag in (above). We each took a turn stirring the tasty concoction, and of course we got a sample. Mmm, mmm, good! Actually, Todd and I agreed it wasn't bad! Definitely the best airag (or should I say, the "least bad") that I've had in Mongolia. It was a good day.

21 August 2007

Fabulous fish

I'm in UB today (Ulaanbaatar, the capital city). I'm here to pick up my friend Todd at the airport (yay!). Going to UB from Darkhan feels a lot like returning to civilization. I had a few shopping errands to run this afternoon, then I had dinner at one of my favorite restaurants, the "California." They serve the most authentic American food I've had in Mongolia. Tonight I ordered the grilled salmon. Now - let me explain - Mongolia is a land-locked desert, so fish is rarely available in restaurants, and even when it's available, it's usually not advisable. But I gambled tonight, and won big. It was amazing! I savored every fishy bite, and I might not even brush my teeth tonight just so I can hang on to that yummy taste. (ok, now that I typed that out, it sounds kind of gross).

My pal Justin is an American staff member working here with Lifeqwest as a construction manager. We always get jealous of each other when one gets to go to UB and feast on good food, and the other is left behind in Darkhan. Tonight I happened to know that he was dining with the Darkhan state governor, quite an honor. I figured they would be eating Mongolian food, so I couldn't resist taunting him a little. As it turns out, we were both eating dinner at the same time in our respective cities. Here are the messages we exchanged via cell phone text:

me: "I'm eating grilled salmon. I have died and gone to heaven."
Justin: "That's nice. I'm eating goat fat."

I had a little chuckle at my table. I know, I'm mean. But he'll get me back.

18 August 2007

Double wedding day




On Friday I attended my first Mongolian wedding. It was interesting to participate, but really long. After almost 4 hours of sitting and eating, I had to get up and stretch my legs. The groom is one of our staff that I have known since 2004, when I started coming to Mongolia. He is one of the most solid Christian Mongolian men I have met here. He is in charge of our "Mustang" program, a military-style training program for troubled teenage boys. He also preaches at our little church in Hongor. His name is Amaraa, and his wife is Selenge.


The wedding itself was a mixture of traditional and contemporary. It was a Christian wedding, which is somewhat unusual in Mongolia. The bride wore a white dress, and the marriage ceremony was pretty standard in American terms (especially since Jerry, our missionary, married them). There was a funny wedding coordinator that guided the event, which included lots of singing, horse guitar playing, drinking airag and eating sheep fat. On either side of the wedding cake, there was a sheep back/rump laying on the table. Lovely.


Later that same evening, another one of our staff, Pagi, held a wedding reception. He and his wife were dressed in traditional Mongolian garb. The three pictures are of Amaraa's new family, Amaraa and Selenge with the Lifeqwest staff, and Pagi with wife drinking airag.


In case you're wondering, I politely declined the airag and sheep fat.

12 August 2007

HFBC team



Hurrah! Friends from home! There's nothing better.


01 August 2007

Naadam festival

In early July, I celebrated my first Naadam in Mongolia. Naadam is a huge deal, an annual 3-day national holiday where the 3 "manly sports" are highlighted: wrestling, archery and horseracing. Our little American contingent went to the local stadium to see the opening ceremonies and soak up some of the Naadam festivities. Outside the stadium it was like a state fair, with food and all kinds of vendors. The main food is khuushur (pronounced hoe-shur), which is basically a fried meat pie. But if you want to experience Naadam like a true Mongolian, then you drink airag. I finally decided to bite the bullet and take a sip this year. Airag is fermented mares' milk, and it's pretty foul. But I did it, so now I can be called a "Chinggis" Mongol (that's an authentic Mongolian). Interestingly, part of the awards ceremony for the horseracing involves each person drinking airag and then pouring some of it on the horse's head. Strange, I know.


Here's some photos - if you can't immediately access them, use my username and password (maysus2001@yahoo.com; banderas) to view.


http://www.kodakgallery.com/MyGallery.jsp?&